Liber Amicorum [Photo Illustrated Journal of a European Grand Tour].

Italy, Monaco, France, Scotland and England, 1904. 4to, hand-painted vellum with griffin design on upper cover, emblem of Lion of St. Mark on lower cover. Watercolor illuminated title page. 148 pp., including 150 photos, from 3” x 2” to 8.5” x 11”, 12 color postcards, 1 original watercolor, and various souvenir items such as theater programs, a historical timeline, passenger-lists and deck plans, etc.

Caroline Alden Weir’s delightful account of a springtime grand tour of Italy, France, Scotland and England with her Uncle Henry, Aunt Cora and an annoying companion named Heller.

Caroline Weir, daughter of impressionist artist Julian Alden Weir, traveling variously by ship, gondola, train, landau, and car, visits Venice, Genoa, Ceriano, San Remo, Monte Carlo, Nice, Marseille, Paris, Orleans, Chartres, Fontainebleau, Rouen, Hyde Park, Salisbury, Old Sarum, Edinburgh, Arthur’s Seat, Birmingham, London, and elsewhere; visiting castles, chateaux, historic sites; attending plays, military tournaments, band concerts, and equine demonstrations; reciting historical information gleaned from guides and guidebooks; observing street and nature scenes in a droll and whimsical manner; describing hotels and amusing transportation experiences, ending with her return on the SS Minneapolis. The journal is illustrated throughout with photographs of castles and ruins, landscapes and views, and landmarks and notable architecture, as well as occasional street scenes and portraits.

Caroline’s writing is both engaged and engaging, and her sharp observations shine through in often humorous descriptions of her experiences, her surroundings, and what she has learned. She gives special attention to the history of the places she visits, and often gives in-depth accounts of it in her diary. She is clearly cultured and well-read, and the journal’s first entry opens with a quote from Lewis Carroll—“The time has come, the walrus said, to talk of many things”—and continues with “and this time its sad enough, for Venice is left far behind us now, and I have never enjoyed a place so thoroughly or regretted so to leave.” On the train trip through the Alps, she describes her conductor as “most attractive for his uniform was neat and he had the whitest teeth and blackest mustache I have ever seen, so I presented him with two oranges for which he seemed very grateful.” In Ceriana, she tastes her first olive and on the drive in a landau from San Remo to Monte Carlo “an automobelli passed us, leaving us covered with dust.” In Nice, the King of Sweden and family “occupied apartments just below us,” and in Orleans, Caroline notes that the town is decorated with flags and garlands as “tomorrow there is to be a celebration here to make Jeanne D’Arc a saint.” She writes beautiful descriptions of Chenonceau, Chateau de Chambord, cliff dwellings, and other places of historical or personal interest. Normandy inspires many historical anecdotes, and after seeing a pretty stream in the Loire Valley, she “wished for Papa to take me fishing” (Julian Alden Weir was an ardent angler).

Crossing the English Channel, Caroline cites one of many grievances with the unknown Heller, complaining that she had “just used up every centime of French money so when I wanted Barbary Bunns, Heller has to get them for me & did not buy the right kind so I was very disappointed for the others were not very good.” On arrival in England, however, things improve with a stay at Claridge’s, shopping at Redfern’s, and developing film at Eastman’s. At Hyde Park, “feather boas are much in evidence and there were plenty of stunning horses & motor cars.” Walking to the Salisbury Cathedral with Aunt Cora, she recollects: “old tombs and a couple of very pretty stained glass windows by Burn Jones. Then in company with three brown soldiers, the guide took us into the cloisters…all was so quiet & peaceful & altogether delightful.” Then, “off again, this time for the bonnie land of mist & craigs, hurrah!”—to Edinburgh on a visit to Abbortsford, home of Sir Walter Scott, “now owned by his great granddaughter Mrs Constable-Maxwell-Scott.” Caroline is enchanted by Haddon Hall in Derbyshire, took many interior and exterior photos of it, and on the Wye River again “longs for a [fishing] rod and Papa.” On the return to London, she attended a Royal Military Tournament and watched the “Musical Ride by 21st Empress of India’s Lancers and that was as pretty a thing as anyone would care to see.” On June 4th, Caroline takes the SS Minneapolis home, enjoying the company of several other passengers.

An engaging scrapbook and journal of a cultured and observant young lady, offering a lively account of Europe in 1904.

CONDITION: Slight wear at edges, head and foot of spine slightly chipped, otherwise very good.